I can honestly say that I did not expect to love this city as much as I did. It is unfortunately a bit more on the expensive side, but that really did not take away from the beautiful architecture, the Danish lifestyle, the incredible sights, and the delicious food. If I had enough pocket money, I could have easily spent a week here.

The Basics

• Length of Stay: Four nights, four days (I did spend one full day in Gothenburg, Sweden – see post here)
• National Currency: Danish Krone
• Accommodation: Steelhouse

Accommodation Review

Wonderful! A centrally located, upscale hostel in Copenhagen. I feel like it’s always a good sign when you see families with small children staying in these types of accommodations. It takes away from the youth-centric, often sketchy vibe that hostels stereotypically carry. For starters, this building is a rehabbed steel factory – so right up my alley (re: my entire thesis for graduate school). The entire first floor is a common area with ample seating, free coffee, sandwiches and snacks for purchase, drinks on tap, and a game wing (i.e. pool, ping pong, etc.). On the lower level, there is a gym and a pool! As for the rooms – there are various options, anywhere from a private to a mixed dorm of six people. I chose the mixed dorm, because it was obviously the cheapest option. Unlike many hostels, we had a private bathroom and shower stall, and the bunk beds were almost like individual pods so to speak – they felt more private than the standard bunk bed. I could tell the linens were fresh, and the site also provides free towels. Lastly, the hostel hosts an array of activities – such as a daily walking tour of the city, yoga classes, pub crawls, trivia nights, and live music. I really do not have any complaints as I felt extremely comfortable and was constantly presented with multiple entertainment options in the event that I became lonely.

Tips and Advice

Consider purchasing the Copenhagen Card, which I will reference throughout the post. The Copenhagen Card is essentially a city pass, the purchase of which will grant you FREE access to ALL forms of public transit, and one free admission per day to an array of sights – castles, museums, sightseeing tours, etc. The card can be purchased for a one, two, or three-day period, and comes in a tangible card form or digitally via the app. I downloaded the app and purchased my one-day pass for $54, and I found the whole process to be extremely user-friendly. You can browse a list of all the activities, it tells you what the opening times are, provides a description, and tells you from exactly which entrance you need to enter. Keep in mind also that you do have to scan your card in exchange for a ticket upon entry, so you will have to wait in ticket lines, but will never have to pay. Find out if it’s worth it for you based on how many sights you want to see in a one-day period (24hrs) and add up the individual entrance fees to see if they are greater or less than the price of a one-day pass. Additionally, you do receive a discount for each additional day you purchase. Overall, an amenity that should definitely be kept in mind!

The other piece of advice I would share is to not worry at all about having Danish cash (the Kroner) on you and this really can be said for all Scandinavian countries. I never once entered and a establishment that did not take credit card payments, as it is their main form of payment (particularly via the tap to pay method). When I had lunch at the Reffen, the street food market, cash was not accepted at all. So, really, just make sure you have a card with no foreign transaction fees and you will be perfectly fine. Of course, it means you would probably want to manually tally up how much money you’re spending, because it is much easier to not think about digital payments. You do not want to return home from your vacation and be shocked at your credit card statement.

Lastly, I would encourage anyone to rent either a bicycle or an electric scooter. The infrastructure for cycling is beyond anything that I have ever seen in the United States. I only chose to ride a scooter because we don’t really have that option yet back home and it has always been something I wanted to try, so why not do it in a place where I know I would feel extremely safe. I did not wear a helmet at all, and never once did I feel threatened for my safety – not when I was scooting through construction sites, on highway-like streets, around rotaries, or even in the absence of a dedicated lane that had me inches away from a public bus. Additionally, there is zero physical effort involved in scooting, and minimal physical effort with cycling because Copenhagen is a very flat city. The locals say that the steepest inclines are the bridges that go over the canals. So to have that geographic landscape combined with top-of-the-line infrastructure, cycling in Copenhagen really makes for a pleasurable activity, and is in fact the main method of transportation for locals.

Arrival Day

Evening: My flight arrived around 4:30pm and I stepped off the plane in rainy Copenhagen, which I had not been anticipating. I took the metro from the airport to Nørreport Station and walked slightly less than twenty minutes to my hostel. I ended up spending the rest of the evening there, as the jet-lag combined with rain made it pretty hard for me to want to venture outside. I took that as a sign, though, to just relax, enjoy the atmosphere of the hostel lounge, and get some early sleep.

Day One

Breakfast: Kompa’9. Wonderful! A quaint little café with shared wooden tables and benches both inside and out. I ordered a yogurt and granola parfait, which may sound sound exactly awe-inspiring, but it was a substantial portion and the homemade granola really added a special flavor. I paired it with a simple iced coffee because let’s face it, I’m a New Englander and I hardly know anything else.

Early Afternoon: After my delicious breakfast, I left the restaurant and walked through the Stroget, the first and longest pedestrian strip in Europe, on the way to the Nyhavn. The Nyhavn is likely the neighborhood that you would picture when thinking about Copenhagen – colorful houses lining a canal filled with shops and cafés. It was here that I found the canal tour, which was the first activity I took advantage of with my Copenhagen Card. However, while waiting in line, I realized I was at the wrong entrance, so I exited and proceeded to walk about a half-mile to the proper entrance. The canal tour was fantastic, partly because the sights were gorgeous, and partly because our guide was so engaging and just well-versed in the history of Copenhagen. The tour lasted one hour and we sailed along the canals, through the different neighborhoods, under some narrow bridges and into the inner harbor. If you are interested in learning some Danish history and seeing some sights from the comfort of a private boat, I would highly recommend this tour. Following the boat tour, I walked over to Amalienborg, The palatial grounds of the Danish royal family. The grounds consist of a square with four houses, one of which is on display for visitors. This was the house of Fredrik IV, the great-great grandfather of the current Queen Margarethe II. It is a beautiful home, and I spent about thirty minutes walking around inside. There are maybe fifteen rooms on display? Unless I am remembering differently. I’m not sure that I would have paid the admission if it had not been included with my Copenhagen card, but it was lovely to see.

Lunch: Kompasset. This is a café right in the Nyhavn, and yes, I did know what I was getting myself into. I really wanted to try smørrebrød, the typical Danish open-faced sandwich with a rye bread base. All of the restaurants I wanted to try, however, were either closing within the hour for the afternoon break or were too far of a walk, so I had to settle for the tourist trap which meant paying higher prices for smaller quantities, I ended up receiving a half-sized sandwich for what could have easily been the price of a full-sized sandwich elsewhere. I did end up leaving pretty satisfied, and the sandwich was actually very tasty. Following my meal, I walked next door to the ice cream shop because I was in the mood for something sweet, I ordered a cone with two scoops – it was okay but I am sure you could find better options in other areas of the city. In all honesty, I would probably advised against snacking or dining at any of the establishments in the Nyhavn, unless you find yourself desperate like me.

Afternoon: now that I had re-energized, it was time to set off again on foot. I made my way over to the Round Table Tower, an old observatory tower that was constructed back when Copenhagen was still a walled city. I used my Copenhagen card again for admission, and proceeded to walk up the spiral tower. There aren’t actually any stairs until you reach the last bit, so the walk is a progressive inclined path, but it was very manageable. The views from the top were decent, but there is a barred fence surrounding the tower so it’s not exactly a clear-cut overlook of the city. Again, I probably would not have paid the standard admission fee if I did not have the Copenhagen Card. My final stop of the day was at the Tivoli Gardens, again, the admission of which was covered by the Copenhagen Card.

Dinner: Tivoli Food Hall for smørrebrød, round two, though the hall does have an array of food stalls, and it is not the only food option available at the Gardens. Unlike lunchtime, I received a full-sized sandwich with a mountain of toppings, and I think the price was still the same. The sandwich consisted of chicken salad and two strips of bacon on top, and I devoured the dish in its entirety.

Evening: As I mentioned, I spent the evening at the Tivoli Gardens, the oldest amusement park in Europe. It did start out just as gardens, but through the years, it has been transformed into an amusement park. The park, however, is not a concrete mass with supergiant roller coasters, minimal benches, and overpriced greasy food like those we might be used to you in the States. Rather, the entrance is in actual garden and as you continue further into the park, there are two fields with stages for performances (in case anyone loves Lauryn Hill, she is playing there next month), and the peripheries are lined with cafés, restaurants, the food hall, and lounge areas. Not just park benches, but full scale lounge chairs with tables and umbrellas. And, yes, alcohol is available. As you walk toward the back of the park, You will find the areas of the rides and games, which all have separate prices in addition to the entrance fee. I was really impressed by Tivoli. Apart from its beauty, there is something for everyone, and as parks should be, it is an oasis at which you can enjoy the weather of warm summer day.

Day Two

As I mentioned before, I spent this day in Gothenburg. Read my post here.

Day Three

Breakfast: The Packhouse, located in the Christianshavn neighborhood. I made my way there by electric scooter (my new favorite mode of transit) and sat down at a table along the canal. I ordered a sourdough toast with crème fraîche and a mixed berries that was drizzled in honey, and paired it with a tropical smoothie. It really hit the spot, and I would absolutely recommend this place.

Morning: after breakfast, I spent the rest of the morning wandering the streets of Christianshavn, and then proceeded toward the Inner Harbor. Christianshavn Is so wonderfully quaint, filled with colorful homes in cobblestone Straits. The Inner Harbor is also pretty spectacular. There are platforms spread out through the harbor that are lined with cafés, and you will also find groups of people congregating on certain platforms as if they are making their own beach. And yes, they will swim in the water. I continued my walk along the harbor toward the Reffen, a food market in a former industrial area that is located on the northernmost point on the east side of the harbor.

Lunch: Reffen, specifically Nordic Hotdog. Wow, wow, wow. I fell in love with the entire vibe that is the Reffen. The majority of the stalls with in this street food market are made from recycled shipping containers, and the mix of choices is so diverse. I saw everything from South Asian, to American and Central American, other European cuisines, and of course, Scandinavian. My hotdog was a beef sausage in a brioche bun, topped with mustard, and shredded cabbage. Hands down the tastiest hotdog I have ever had. What made it better was the Reffen craft longer I had with it, which can be bought at the bar hall along with all other drinks, both alcoholic and nonalcoholic. Finally, the ability to enjoy my meal along side the harbor in a lounge chair provided by the venue really added to the positive experience I had there.

Afternoon: The Reffen is located pretty far out, so I decided to scoot back into the city in order to be at Central Station for my beer tour which began at 3PM. Our tour was within the Vesterbro neighborhood, which historically was where all of the merchants and workers lived when Copenhagen was a fortified city, as they were not allowed to live inside the walls. From then, the neighborhood transformed into one that was populated by the homeless, drug addicts, and sex workers. Today, you will still come across populations of these people, but in smaller numbers, and mixed in with younger working residents of Copenhagen. We visited three stops along our tour – a typical Danish bodega, the original Mikkeller beer location, and the Fermentorium. I had an absolute blast! We were a group of six people – five American visitors and our Danish tour guide – and we all ended up staying at Fermentorium well past the end of our tour, just chatting and enjoying each other’s good company.

Dinner: Kul, a Scandinavian restaurant that is located in the former Meatpacking District. My dinner was light, but delicious – a focaccia with lava butter (a whipped butter that was dyed black – with what I am not sure) while I waited, a shrimp appetizer, and a braised duck as my entree. Even if Scandinavian food does not excite your tastebuds, I would still recommend visiting the Meatpacking District for an overall great selection of restaurants and a fun atmosphere.

Departure Day

Breakfast: Sidecar. I can officially say that breakfast was all around the best meal I’ve had in Copenhagen. I read about this restaurant online, which is located in the Nørrebro neighborhood, about one mile from my hostel. Going to this restaurant was also another way to explore part of the city that I still had not seen. I decided to scoot over there because I did not even know if I could have walked for ten minutes on an empty stomach, never mind twenty. I ordered the waffle with Greek yogurt and mixed berries, and strawberry syrup, and paired it with an iced coffee. SO good!

Morning: again, by way of scooter, I decided to use my remaining a few hours to see some of the last sites of the city. The first was the statue of the Little Mermaid, whose character was created by Danish author Hans Christian Andersen. If you did not know this already, the statue was actually on the list for Most Disappointing Attractions in Europe, alongside the Mona Lisa. To be honest, I find that unfair because I cannot understand what more you would expect from a simple statue, especially one that represents a fictional character. Go check it out if you want, but it is out of the way, and I merely took one photo before I scooted off again. My last stop in Copenhagen was the Christiansborg Palace, the former home of the Danish royal family. I did not go inside because I did not have any time, but I did enjoy my brief walk around the outdoor grounds.

If I had more time…

I would have spent at least one more full day exploring all of the castles outside of Copenhagen, such as Helsingborg and Kronborg, to name a couple.

I also would have visited Christiania. This, for lack of a better expression, is a hippie community that is located east of Christianshavn. When I say happy, I mean that people are actively smoking and selling cannabis, even though it is currently outlawed in Denmark. If you do visit, just know that you are advised to not take photos or videos, at least on the main street. My beer tour guide told our group that visitors have had their cameras thrown or stomped on, and that’s just apparently the bare minimum of what could happen. Don’t let that discourage you from going there, it is a one-of-a-kind community and just about everyone I have spoken to that has been to Copenhagen agrees that it is worth visiting.